Since the mobile phones are locked away in a small container that is uselessly dangling from our necks, the sense of expectation keeps growing. Some people are having loud conversations in Italian, some are reading their paper tickets, some are staring into half-empty beer glasses, some are doing crossword puzzles. We are all coping the way we can. It is half past eight, and Bob Dylan will be on that stage in thirty minutes or so.
It is, in fact, very much not 'or so'. He is there at nine o'clock sharp entering the stage inauspiciously in his yellow hooded jacket that renders his face virtually invisible. The well-trodden "Watching The River Flow" opens the show, and suddenly the floodgates are open. All those years of waiting, millions of hours of listening to him and dissecting the lyrics and marvelling at the melodies, those long weeks of expecting either Trump or Putin to start the third world war, and then those unbearable last few days of demented thoughts like what if he doesn't make it (or, indeed, what if I collapse on the slippery pavement of Bologna and bash my head in a few hours before the show) - all of this is gone now, and I relax into it with a joyful heartbeat and a few tears. It is all happening, finally.
I always say that there is a certain moment during every show that hits you particularly hard. All the stars are aligned and for a minute or two you are at your most emotional and perceptive. For me, this moment comes during the second song, when Dylan rips into the lyrics of "Love Sick". There really is something about that song that feels real, and raw, both for Dylan and for the audience. He bites into those words, they roll - beautifully - from his tongue. Or else he spits them out. There is so much to that song. I can't believe, quite frankly, that he is doing "Love Sick" - even if he does it at every show. In Rome, in Paris, in Ljubljana. My face is all red and it feels like I'm running a fever.
Oddly, my mind is not wandering in the course of the concert as it does sometimes during other shows. Not even when the band does extended instrumental sections of generic blues covers - I'm focused on the hooded silhouette and try to mend those fragile vocal cords and grasp the half-heard lyrics and reimagined melodies. Or, rather, it wanders only a couple of times. First, to try to comprehend (although how could you) that this is the very same man who inspired everyone, from John Lennon to Don DeLillo. Second, to try to conflate this huge roaring arena and those small clubs in Greenwich Village where he used to perform to twenty people more than 65 years ago.
Mostly, though, I'm here to admire the band (who are tight, and very fucking loud) and the fact that "Tryin' To Get To Heaven" sounds so wonderfully upbeat these days. And "Under The Red Sky", with a fiery harmonica solo, is all of a sudden a great song. And the sentimental, surprising "Sugar Baby" is performed for the first time in more than a decade. There is no banter between the songs. No breaks. Applause seems misjudged, and misplaced.
It is not a perfect setlist. Ask a million people to make a perfect Dylan setlist, and none of them will come up with anything remotely similar to his choices. Still, he does four songs from Time Out Of Mind (which I love) and performs two songs that got onto my recent list of Dylan's ten best songs (a speechlessly beautiful "Tangled Up In Blue" and the aforementioned "Love Sick"). And besides, who even cares about our opinions?.. We are there to admire and appreciate, really, and whisper and whoop ecstatically when there is a line that we recognise. He only does it his way, of course, and his way is rather dark these days. "Tryin' To Get To Heaven". "Black Rider". "Not Dark Yet". "Soon After Midnight". And then, somewhat desperately and euphorically, we end on "I Shall Be Released" that has hundreds of frantic Italians rushing to the stage.
There is a short, and rather naive, wait for an encore. He doesn't do those. He does a brief nod and then leaves. The lights are on again. I've been waiting my whole life for this, and now it is over.